Best wave of my life
Among all the concerns of you that are so fragile and the lectures that have gotten me to really really love studies again I manage to do it today. Live. Just in that moment. Take the feeling in and just live, there and then.
A late afternoon session, hit the water by 6.. sun already setting, sky flairing
in red, dark yellow and orange. BIG swell, almost no wind..
A few missed takeoffs.
Then.
THE wave.
Didnt look all that at the take off.
nice left curl
Deeeeep bottom turn
high up on the wave again
Almost a secound drop
quick bottom again,
high up,
starting to close
getting a smooth secound of right before speeding off
caught the white
few turns in front
smooth sailing
all the way in.
The grin on my face still says it all.
Thank you Lisboa.
I hope that this is what you have in store for me for many many days to come.
A late afternoon session, hit the water by 6.. sun already setting, sky flairing
in red, dark yellow and orange. BIG swell, almost no wind..
A few missed takeoffs.
Then.
THE wave.
Didnt look all that at the take off.
nice left curl
Deeeeep bottom turn
high up on the wave again
Almost a secound drop
quick bottom again,
high up,
starting to close
getting a smooth secound of right before speeding off
caught the white
few turns in front
smooth sailing
all the way in.
The grin on my face still says it all.
Thank you Lisboa.
I hope that this is what you have in store for me for many many days to come.
Ps. The green love is performing like wonders.
I am SO pleased with it.
I am SO pleased with it.
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