Surf day 2
Up in the early morning, my whole body acing from the crash and the pounding in the water last night.
One wave later.
All gone.
Happiness.
First session of the day almost as good conditions as last night, but a bit more wind. Got a few more perfect waves and really enjoyed the 7"9 I had for the day. Much better handling than the larger board I had last night.
A rather long lunch break, some logistic planning and a little nap later I am once again in the water.
Conditions ok, nice sets rolling in and almost as big as last night, but farther between them.
Arms acing, shoulders about the give up.. But still.
Happiness.
Peace.
Life.
MOMENT.
The waves drop as the night wears longer but some of the sunset waves I caught, with the sky behind me in fiery red and pink and the mountains in front of me as beautiful as ever in the sunset light will always stay in my mind.
We get back a bit closer to midnight than first planned, but hey. It?s surf. Plans don?t count!
Not much to brag about in the pics, but just picture the place when we had good ones!
Thanx to;
for the pics!
